Fiber fineness is
important quality characteristic which plays a prominent part in
determining the spinning value of cottons.
If the same count of yarn is spun from two varieties of cotton, the yarn spun from the variety having finer fibers will have a larger number of fibers in its cross-section and hence it will be more even and strong than that spun from the sample with
coarser fibres.
Fineness denotes the size of the cross-section dimensions of the
If the same count of yarn is spun from two varieties of cotton, the yarn spun from the variety having finer fibers will have a larger number of fibers in its cross-section and hence it will be more even and strong than that spun from the sample with
coarser fibres.
Fineness denotes the size of the cross-section dimensions of the
fibre. As the cross-sectional
features of cotton fibres are irregular, direct
determination of the
area of cros-section is difficult and laborious. The Index of
fineness which is more
commonly used is the linear density or weight per unit
length of the fibre.
The unit in which this quantity is expressed varies in
different parts of the
world. The common unit used by many countries for
cotton is micrograms
per inch and the various air-flow instruments
developed for measuring
fibre fineness are calibrated in this unit
The fibre fineness is
expressed in wt. per unit length or length per weight.
According to “Textile
Institute”, the fineness of cotton, silk and manufactured
fibres is usually
expressed in terms of average linear density.
A single fibre has
variable cross-section along its length and varies in cross-
section shape from
fibre to fibre. To overcome their effect in calculating
fineness, same index of
fineness is derived.
Mass = Volume x Density
= Cross-section area x length x density.
For a known length or
unit length,
Mass 8 Cross-sectional area.
For this suitable
fineness index is taken by measuring the wt. of a known
length of fibre is
called linear density and this is expressed in terms of wt. per
unit length.
Importance of fineness:
1. Lower irregularity
of yarn:
With a greater number
of fibres in the cross-section the basic irregularity is
reduced. The finer the
fibre the higher the number and the lower the
irregularity. Fine
fibre gives more regular yarn than the coarse fibre.
2. Uniformity of count:
A fine fibre can be
spun to finer than coarse fibre measurement of fineness.
In other words the
finer the fibre, the higher the yarn count will be.
3. Uniformity of
strength:
In a given cross-sectional area, if a given
count is spun a fine and coarse
fibre, a more and a
stronger yarn will result from the fine fibre because of
being large no. of
finer fibre.
4. Uniform of fabric
characteristics:
As fine fibre gives more uniform yarn, so it
gives good quality fabric with
uniform property.
5. Less twist:
The finer the fibre the
greater the total surfaces area available for inter fibre
contact and
consequently, less twist is needed to provide the necessary
cohesion.
6. Spinning
performance:
The fineness of the fibre affects several
mechanical properties and therefore
influences the
behaviour of the fibre during processing.
7. Good appearance:
The finer yarn produced
by finer fibre is good appearance.
8. Less neps:
In the finer yarn, less
neps present.
Principle of fibre fineness measurement:
1. Gravimetric method.
2. Optical method.
3. Air flow method.
4. Vibroscope method.
Air Flow Method:
Principle:
In this method, fibre fineness is measured by
air flow. If large amount of air is
blown, the fibre will
be coarse and if small amount of air is blown, the fibre will
be fine. — The method
based on this principle.
Procedure:
. A sample of known
weight is taken and compressed in a cylinder to a
known volume and
subjected to an air current at a known pressure.
. The rate of air flow
through the porous plug of fibre is measured.
. Suppose, two
cylinders of similar dimensions were filled with:
a) A few cylinder rods
of large diameter.
b) Many rods of small
diameter.
. If air were blown
through the two cylinders at the same pressure, it
would be finding that
the rate of air flow through (b) was less than
through (a).
. The reason is that
the air flowing through (b) has more rod surface to
flow past.
. The difference in the
rate of air flow is a measure of the difference in the
surface area of the
large diameter and small diameter rods. This leads us
to consider the
specific surface.
For fibres of circular
cross-section specific surface is inversely proportional to
the fibre diameter.
Therefore by measuring the rate of air flow under controlled
condition, the specific
surface S, can be determined and consequently the fibre
diameter. Then by using
a value for the density of the material, the fibre wt. per
unit length/ fineness
could be derived.
The WIRA cotton
fineness meter:
This instrument is a
modified version of the Wool fineness meter and is
manufactured by Shirley
Developments Ltd. The diagram of the general
Construction:
. In this apparatus, A
is a cylindrical holder with a perforated false bottom.
. M is a manometer
which indicates the pressure difference in cm;
. V is a control valve
which controls air flow through cotton plug.
. F is a flow meter
indicating air flow in litre per min.
. In this chamber, a
sample of fixed wt (5 gm) is compressed to a fixed
volume by piston P.
Working principle:
. 6 gm sample weighed
to an accuracy of 0.05 gm is fluffed up to
eliminated any tangled
parts.
.
. The sample is then
packed into the cylindrical holder and compressed to
a constant volume by
the perforated plunger.
. With the flow control
valve shut, the exhaust pump is switched on.
. The air flow is then
regulated by the control valve until the manometer
indicates that a
pressure difference of 18 cm of water across the ends of
the plug of cotton.
. The flow meter to be
is graduated in Micronaire and the reading at the
top of the indicator
float is recorded.
. A repeat observation
is made after removing the sample and repacking it
into the holder.
. For greater accuracy,
a third observation is operated.
. Then the mean value
is taken. Therefore direct reading of cotton fineness
is got.
Gravimetric method:
1. Cotton:
For carrying out this experiment, at first the
comb sorter diagram is
made. Then 5 tufts of
fibre are taken at intervals down the diagram and
from each tuft a
section is sliced out by means of two razor blades set in a
holder at a spacing of
1 cm. then using a large lens and good lighting, 100
fibres are counted from
each of the tufts. Each group of 100 fibres is
collected and weighed
on a sensitive micro balance. The mean fibre weight
per centimeter is
calculated. After determining the maturity of cotton, this
may be corrected to
give the standard fibre weight per centimeter, Hs.
2. Bast fibres:
At first five tufts from the staple diagram
are taken. Then they are
combed straight and a
known length is from the middle of each tuft and
weighed to an accuracy
of 1 in 100 and the number of fibres counted. The
mean fibre wt. per unit
length is then calculated.
3. Man made staple
fibre:
The length of individual fibre is measure by a
scale on a velvet pad. Two
pairs of tweezers are
used to remove the crimp. Each fibre is weighed on a
micro bale and the
results used to calculate the fibre weight per unit length.
4. Wool:
After completing a fibre length test the
fibres are collected and thoroughly
cleared of oil, allowed
to condition and then weighed on a micro balance. The
total fibre length is
calculated and knowing the number of fibres the fibre wt.
per unit can be
derived.
Micronaire value:
The term micronaire
value is now a widely used expression and where as
originally the figure
meant fibre wt. in micrograms per inch.
The micronaire value
regarded as indication of maturity and fineness. The
units are commonly
ignored.
The higher micronaire
value of the fibre, the fibre regarded coarser.
Micronaire value plays
a vital role during mixing of different grades of fibres for
Yarn preparation. The
higher micronaire value difference of fibre, higher yarn
irregularity.
The fibres are
classified in different grades on the basis of micronaire value.
Micronaire value Classification of fibre
2.9 or below very fine
3.0 to 3.9 fine
4.0 to 4.9 average
5.0 to 5.9 coarse
6.0 to above very
coarse
System / Unit of measuring fineness:
The fineness of cotton
fibre is measured by following two systems:
1. British System:
In this system, the linear density is either
the fibre wt, per cm or the hair
wt. per cm, H.
Here the unit of wt.= milligram x 10-5
And the unit of length = cm.
The unit of fineness = H x 10-5 mg/cm.
Example: The fibre wt.
per cm for an American upland cotton may be 142
i.e. 192mg x 10-5/cm
2. American System:
In this system, the linear density is
expressed in microgram per inch.
Here, the unit of wt. = microgram (gm x 10-6)
The unit of length = inch.
Example: the linear
density of American Upland would be 4.9 i.e. 4.9
microgram per inch.
In this system,
fineness is expressed in micronaire.
Relation between two
fineness measuring systems:
American linear density = fibre wt in gm x
10-6 / inch
= A x 10-6 gm / inch
British linear density = fibre wt. in mg x
10-5 / cm
= fibre wt. in gm x 10-3 x 10-5 / cm
= H x 10-8 gm/cm
= H x 10-8 x 2.54 gm / inch
We have, A x 10-6 = H x 10-8 x 2.54
A = H x 10-2 x 2.54
This is the derived relationship between them.
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